Featured Image: Toots checking out Po in half, sitting beside the Zamora boards at the Loghouse.
The forecast was 3~5ft last February 2, 2016 and only a few shortboarders were out. After an hour of paddling out and taking long, crazy drops at the Monalisa Point, I ended up with 2 boards — one roughly 3ft long and the other a little over 5ft. My friend, Ayres, had buckled her favorite board as well. That wave, that wave was a mean one.
At first, waves we’re fat, big and peeling, but as the tide drop it became much sketchier so I decided to take my last wave in. I went to the peak and with perfect timing, I looked behind me and saw the biggest wave at the point that I have ever seen. Afraid that a rogue wave’s lip would fall directly on me, I dove under it after kicking my board away. I pulled onto my leash as soon as the wave passed, grateful that it didn’t break, yet wondering why it felt somewhat lighter. As soon as I resurfaced I saw my board’s tail and it’s exposed foam and all I could think of was: OH SHIT. I did, however, stopped panicking after I realized it was buoyant enough for me to “bodyboard” back to the shore…. So there I was, picking up the nose end, trudging back to Little Surfmaid. I walked home a bit shaken up but grateful that I was left unharmed.
I had Po for a little over a year and it instantly became my favorite and I didn’t really think losing a board would hurt that bad. I was fine the whole day and then eventually, I was crying in the car back to Manila while I was telling my friend what had happened over the phone. Of course, I tried to cover up the pain by buying a new board… which I actually barely used — such a brief rebound affair, that one. Hahaha
After a couple of weeks, Aki-san fixed Po and, honestly, it has never been better! It became a bit heavier and had a bit more rocker which meant more speed and less nose dives! Haha It still rides great at Monalisa Point (even Cemento, Baler!) so I decided would never ever sell it –that would definitely be another heartbreak to deal with…