Featured Image: San Juan, La Union’s famous lightshow.
I live in a city far from the sea and surfing every weekend will always be time consuming, expensive and exhausting but it is always the highlight of my week. It is exhilarating, fulfilling, rejuvenating and aside from my family, it is a part of my life that has always been (and will always be) a source of love, hope and peace.
I’ve created this space to share my stories about surfing, thoughts from the most recent trip, realizations in the lineup and moments with my surf family that I truly appreciate. I may not be able to record it all and I’ve probably forgotten a lot since I started my first surf lesson in 2008, but there is still so much more to experience, thousands of breaks to explore, millions of strangers to meet and an infinite number of waves to paddle for.
I do have a city life which is much different from my weekends. I love being a database engineer and I enjoy coding while having my morning coffee. I spend most of the day in front of the computer and I usually just take a break to eat, work out and sleep. Of course, whatever I’m doing, my mind always inevitably wanders back to my favorite beaches and before I know it, I’ve just spent an hour analyzing the next weekend’s swell forecast and started planning my next trip. :)
For now, this is enough but someday, I intend to live by the ocean — in a home much closer to my soul.