Featured Image: The Friday morning session at Vista, taken by Tonet Jose 08/07/2015.
It can be truly terrifying and at the same time most comforting to be out in the lineup. It is something very hard for me to explain and yet so easy for me to claim. It is filled with both the unknown and the familiar: whenever I see a wave jack up behind me, my heart starts to race and I turn almost in panic… but once I start paddling, my mind becomes more focused and I tune everything out until it’s just me and the wave. In a way, this is also one of the reason why I end up dropping in on someone. I keep my eyes on the nose of my board and my peripheral view on the steepness of the wave. I definitely need to pay more attention to people who paddle nearer the peak, especially the shortboarders who usually wait until the wave is critical. (Sorry Del, sorry Phil :))
August 6, 2015
When we arrived that Thursday morning the waves we’re still small but slowly but already powerful. By afternoon however, Heartbreak (and even Vista a little before the sun set) was pumping! Overhead waves consistently came in while I tried to stick it out with the veteran surfers. The owner of KVR, Mike, was subtly telling me to transfer to Vista which was a much gentler and slightly smaller than Heartbreak but I hardheadedly stayed and attempted a few more takeoffs to assure myself that my first wave was not a fluke. Unfortunately, Mike who’s really just looking out for me, was right: I definitely would’ve gotten more waves at the other break. After a couple of long hold downs, I accepted that I was putting myself at too much risk and would probably be in other people’ way. I was already exhausted from getting caught inside and helplessly getting sucked into the peak. I moved to the break in front of KVR and tried my luck there.
Took a few head high waves until it started getting darker and darker and I was only one of the few surfers left in the lineup. Monster sets arrived as if they wanted to compete with the gnarlier Heartbreak point! That was when I decided to turn in for the day. Haha I don’t believe I’ve ever been as scared as I was in the lineup as that afternoon. By the time I paddled in, waves from Vista to Heartbreak we’re already connecting.
We decided to go with Kuya Ian’s suggestion: If waves we’re too big the next morning, we would pack up and leave for La Union whose swell had started coming in. Oh, I was terrified for the next day. :))
August 7, 2015
That morning, Heartbreak was one-and-a-half to double overhead in size and only one foreigner attempted to tame it. We paddled out at Vista which was overhead, possibly 7-8ft, and I was sure glad I did! I usually took off from the shoulder because I couldn’t make the section when dropping from the peak — that is if I didn’t nosedive right into it. :)) The adrenaline rush from this session was almost unbearable but I couldn’t wipe my grin off my face as I’d paddle back out regardless of whether it was a wipeout or a long ride.
I felt that my skills and my courage we’re being tested. I was anxious the whole time but being in the lineup with other wahines: Tin, Nicola and Mika seemed to calm my nerves. After we paddled in, we ate breakfast and ended our KVR adventure by driving down to La Union.
Thank you, Pagudpod, Pagoodpud, Pagodpod. :)) ‘Til we meet again…!
For pictures of our trip, you can try viewing Tonet’s Facebook Album.