Featured Image: Medewi, June 2015 (c) Dane Senja
The best place for regulars to practice their backside….. is wherever the waves break left. :) Luckily in my case, I was in Medewi the first few days of my 2 week long Bali trip. You see, I had been unnecessarily worried about Bali being mostly lefts. I didn’t like the idea of surfing a spot for the first time… on my backside.
Last end of May until early June, we were blessed with good sized waves (shoulder to overhead) and good conditions (slight wind, sets fairly consistent) in Medewi. The swell was particularly big that week and it was only going to get bigger til the weekend. I was definitely nervous watching from the warung during breakfast on the morning we arrived. My fear disappeared as if it got washed away along with the whitewater right after my first wipeout.
Gentle giants. That’s what these waves were. They slowly rolled in, picking up size *sharp inhale*……. and broke softly *giggles*. The drop was easy, as well as the rest of the wave, until that short section where it usually barrels on bigger days. All I had to be cautious about were the huge rocks where it dumps – either bail or make sure I don’t get slammed.
Medewi instantly became my favourite left hander. Even until now, Medewi remains to be my preferred Bali break (diapers, dead rats and all). Within a matter of days, I was able to improve my backside. Thanks to my amazing friends who pointed out my mistakes and gave me valuable tips. Now, lefts aren’t as intimidating and are a hundredfold more enjoyable.