Featured Image: The Friday morning session at Vista, taken by Tonet Jose 08/07/2015. It can be truly terrifying and at the same time most comforting to be out in the lineup. It is something very hard for me to explain and yet so easy for me to claim. It is filled with both the unknown and the […]
Tag: overhead
Medewi last May 2015
Featured Image: Medewi, June 2015 (c) Dane Senja The best place for regulars to practice their backside….. is wherever the waves break left. :) Luckily in my case, I was in Medewi the first few days of my 2 week long Bali trip. You see, I had been unnecessarily worried about Bali being mostly lefts. […]
Heartbreak, Pagudpud during Typhoon Soudelor (Hanna)
No one surfed that morning when Heartbreak was generously giving from what we surmised were double overhead waves, one set after the other. Sitting on a beanbag while watching each lip form into a beautiful barrel only made it a little bit less terrifying. My heart still skipped a beat each time and I’d only stop holding my breath after the group […]