No one surfed that morning when Heartbreak was generously giving from what we surmised were double overhead waves, one set after the other. Sitting on a beanbag while watching each lip form into a beautiful barrel only made it a little bit less terrifying. My heart still skipped a beat each time and I’d only stop holding my breath after the group utters a collective “Woah.” Each wave was a captivating display of Mother Nature’s power.