There is always a good reason to wait: The need to get the timing right. If I start too early or too fast, I am bound to fail. If I start too late or too slow, I’ll probably miss my chance.
When I’m on my surfboard, waiting for that perfect wave for that awesome right, I look far and wide patiently. When I see the wave coming, I start paddling — not too early and not too fast or I’ll be way ahead of it. When it’s about to dump, I paddle hard — not to slow or I’ll be late and I’ll be left behind.
Sometimes I am tempted to stay on the shore so that I can watch and observe and know when the perfect timing is. But learning such a thing requires practice & experience. It’s better to be out there missing waves, than to be studying from afar with my surfboard dry.
kara
August 2010
La Union, Agfa Isolette III, Velvia 50 10mm, Fresh, Cross-Processed–
This is part of a project on waiting entitled Whilst We Wait. All Images and art by Kara Hizon.


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