Every time I go on a surf trip, I plan like a control-freak. Who’s going, seating arrangement, strict departure time, rooms we’re staying in, and most importantly: vegan food that’ll last me for 2-3 days (good to share of course). The only thing I probably don’t plan well is packing my clothes. I always forget something: a bikini bottom, my boardshorts, my sunblock.
It has been a year however, and I guess I have loosened up a bit to say the least. Now, I get a room when I arrive because I make impromptu decisions of where to surf 1 to 2 hours before departure time. I bring whoever is available and I push through even though I am alone. At the beach, I surf immediately, with or without a conventional breakfast. I eat lunch when I get out of water, rest for an hour then go back in the water again. I get out, eventually, after the sun sets or when I can’t paddle out anymore. Dinner, quick drinks then sleep. Rinse and repeat for 2 more days.
It’s not that I’ve gotten out of a controlled routine, it’s more like I’ve comfortably gotten into a new routine that works for me. It’s a routine where anything goes and the only intention is sharing stoked vibes the whole day. There this unplanned and unforeseen change in my mindset regarding surfing and traveling and everything just always falls into place. Each trip is unique and truly is an adventure. There are always new friends to make, new stories to tell, new lessons to learn and new and unpredictable fun to experience.
Every time I paddle back in after a surf session, I always find myself getting something new. It is sometimes tips and advice given by the local surfers…. a higher level of stoke from the “wave of my day/week/life”… or an extremely humbling experience and oneness with the sea.
I hope that I can document these realizations and experiences in my blog because they are priceless and not only should be treasured but shared as well. I have planned to do this since last December 2011, but I keep forgetting and it is only now, since I’ve been stuck at home fore the past 4 days because of the floods that I started writing. There are numerous lessons which have helped me become a better surfer and a better person which I’ve gotten from previous surf trips that I regretted not putting into words as soon as I got home. Though I am sure there will be deeper levels of those lessons to learn in the future and I will have another chance to write about and share them again.